February 3, 2026 |
If you go for a stroll along Dover Street, you’ll pass by both The Dover and its younger, more relaxed sister restaurant, Dover Street Counter, which opened its doors in early December of last year. The latter, sitting pretty on the streets of Mayfair with its gently curved, frosted glass façade, promises to be something truly special. Step inside, gently pull back the black curtain, and allow for London’s persistently grey palette to dissolve into its warm, immersive interior which, as a subtle nod to a 1950s-style American diner, brings to life a fresh perspective through a refined lens and a whole lot of chrome.
Designed by Milanese architects Studio Drago, the space balances a casual energy with a thoughtful vision. At its heart is a sculptural counter running the full length of the open kitchen, encouraging intimate conversations between guests and chefs. That counter is bedecked with a stainless steel top, its silver sheen offset by tiered wooden details. The surrounding walls are finished in a soft, light-brown hue, subtly mirroring the warmed interiors of the fictional Katz’s Deli diner as seen in When Harry Met Sally – though here the ambience is filtered through a far more polished lens.
Seating is sleek and designed for comfort – black leather and steel bar stools reinforce the space’s clean, architectural language. A row of warm amber Art Deco table lamps, each with a dome-shaped shade reminiscent of early 20th-century French design are situated atop the chrome counter, their radiance providing a semi-private, almost cinematic feel. Yet, thanks to the bright and sunny afternoon on which I visited, a lush natural light floated in through the half frosted glass, infusing the space with an ease that felt airy and refreshingly casual.
Upon arrival, my partner and I were guided to our seats at the centre of the counter where the kitchen was laid out like a chef’s stage in front of us. As the chefs worked only an arms reach away from us, the theatre of it all felt nearly as addictive as the food itself. But first, the counter. Laid with crisp white paper placemats embossed with the restaurant’s logo, polished steel cutlery and drink coasters, every detail was noticeable thought out. The square shaped menu, edged with navy blue piping, proposed everything from casual bites to eclectic snacks to hearty mains. Created by head chef Hamish Brown, the globally-inspired dishes combine refinement and comfort by transforming familiar favourites into elevated creations.
With the action unfolded in front of us, we turned our attention to the drinks menu and quickly knew where to begin: a dedicated list of eight margaritas made choosing one not only inevitable, but easy. The Pineapple Margarita caught our eye instantly – refreshing by description alone and undeniably moreish with every sip. Blanco tequila, shaken with amaretto, pineapple and chilli, finished with a tajín rim, delivered exactly what it promised: light, vibrant and perfectly balanced, with a gentle heat that lingered just long enough. It was the kind of drink that invites another – several, even – if it weren’t 1pm on a Saturday afternoon. Next came the Old-School Cosmopolitan, a timeless classic and an easy choice for anyone with a soft spot for effortlessly chic drinks. Served in a slender, ice-cold martini glass, the pale pink liquid sat pristine within, finished simply with a twist of orange. The result was tangy, slightly bitter and impeccably balanced.
The soundtrack of the space is a carefully curated journey through ’90s R&B and soul, flowing from day into evening. Hits from Sade, Joyce Sims and more provided a gentle, soulful backdrop as we sipped our drinks, slowly swaying in time with the music. The music doesn’t have to stop when you leave though – Dover Street Counter allows guests to connect to its Spotify playlist, extending the experience beyond just the meal and letting the music linger long after you’ve licked your fingers clean.
From the tuna melt to the seabream goujons, it’s clear the menu doesn’t take itself too seriously. Playful dishes such as Disco Fries, piled high with pickled chilli, fresh ginger, creamy mayo and disco jus, offer a fun choice. Yet, as you see every dish being created, each crafted with care and expertly executed, it’s clear these aren’t simply comfort foods, but rather, luxe editions of the dishes you already know and love.
Delicate silver coupes of freshly diced tuna, gently coated in avocado and coriander and crowned with a wedge of lime, were accompanied by light Nori-filled crackers. By suggestion from our waiter, placing the tuna on top of the nori cracker and finishing it with a drizzle of lime gave a vibrant citrus zing that seemed to gently melt the tuna. Whipped ricotta drizzled with a truffle honey and topped with chives, was then served alongside Italian crispbreads. Sweet, creamy and delicious, the whisper of truffle was a delight. Light in both flavour and form, both ‘snacks’ left us with plenty of room for the main courses that followed.
Just as our glasses were reaching for that final sip, our waiter appeared with an ice-cold refill. His timing impeccable, almost telepathically accurate – a testament to how great the service is there. It felt intuitive, not intrusive.
For mains, we chose to share as we were keen to explore as much of the menu as possible (though choosing between dishes already proved a delicious dilemma). The Spaghetti All’assassina arrived first: a southern Italian classic reimagined with confidence. The pasta, deliberately crunchy, was coated in a fiery tomato sauce that packed both heat and depth. Presented on an embossed oval dish and finished with a vivid drizzle of lime-green basil oil, it was anything but ordinary. This was no humble spaghetti pomodoro – the chilli-fuelled kick together with the crispy texture made it undeniably moreish.
This was followed by a 300g ribeye beef tagliata that proved utterly mouthwatering before even a single bite had been taken. Perfectly cooked at a medium-rare finish and expertly sliced, the beef arrived glistening, its seared exterior giving way to a tender, blushing centre. Alongside it sat a dainty sauce dish, designed for pouring or dipping the strips of ribeye into, encouraging a more interactive approach to the plate. The sauce itself was a beautifully considered contrast: a vibrant blend of black pepper, ginger, chilli and coriander, brightened by citrus notes that sliced cleanly through the richness of the meat.
To continue our exploration of the drinks menu, we chose to share a bottle of 2023 Picpoul de Pinet. Dry yet vibrant, the French wine held lively notes of green apple and lemon zest. Rather than competing with the richness of the ribeye, it refreshed and rebalanced each bite, lifting the dish into something altogether lighter. Paired with the citrus-forward sauce and a side of tenderstem broccoli coated in ginger and chilli, the Picpoul proved a flawless companion.
We shared one final indulgence: a warm apple and rhubarb pie nestled in a pool of fragrant cardamom custard and lightly dusted with cinnamon sugar. Far from any ordinary takeaway dessert, it felt elevated and comforting in equal measure – each spoonful a perfect balance of warmth, spice and sweetness.
Even the post-meal touches spoke to Dover Street Counter’s deep attention to detail. In the bathrooms, a small station offered a refreshing mouthwash with paper cups, the vibrant “Smurf blue” rinse made for a playful and practical way to cleanse the palate – a small gesture, but one that left a memorable impression.
As we left the lovely new eatery, we practically rolled out. Having been welcomed not just by the food but by the atmosphere, the service and the artistry of the kitchen. Observing the chefs meticulously frying, chopping and preparing each dish was as educational as it was entertaining. It left us longing to return and to devour more dishes from this, one of the tastiest of menus.
Photography courtesy of Dover Street Counter.
