February 3, 2026 |
Fashion’s capitals have long been set in stone – Paris, Milan, London and New York. But over the last decade, a quiet contender has been reshaping the narrative one sustainable initiative at a time: Copenhagen. It even carries the title of the fifth unofficial fashion week. Now, in its 20th year, the week which was once seen as a charming footnote on the fashion calendar is making waves: think established names such as Ganni, Cecilie Bahnsen, Rotate Birger Christensen and Mfpen. And the new wave of emerging talent giving CPHFW a new lease on life, from Nikolas Skovgard to Forza Collective and Sson. The AW26 season gave us 21 shows and many brand events to keep us on our toes. Here, we take a look at some of key moments from the jam-packed week.
Niklas Skovgaard AW26
Location, Location, Location
Show sets took a bit of an international turn with not one, but two shows taking place within an embassy. Up first was Swede brand Rave Review, founded by Josephine Bergqvist and Livia Schück. The pair paid homage to their native land by showing their collection inside the historic rooms of the Swedish Embassy, a residence built in the 18th century, and soundtracked by live original music from AK Cinder. Upcycled fabrics were the focal point as old, printed, deadstock fabrics were turned into trapeze skirts that resembled lampshades, tops featured off-kilter linings and discarded blankets became puffy tops.
A couple of hours later, we had our passports at the ready again, this time, inside the French Embassy for Paolina Russo’s AW26 outing. It marked the end of a two-year absence from the Copenhagen Fashion Week calendar, and founders Paolina Russo and Lucile Guilmard marked their return with a bang by staging the show inside the grand space. Live music from French singer Oklou soundtracked the show, while ready-to-wear boasted predominantly long and pleated skirts, striped jersey tops, custom bags and collegiate crests. What a welcome back.
Paolina Russo AW26
Models
Casting is always a hot topic during the global fashion weeks, and CPHFW was no different. The Danish fashion week’s international pull was emphasised by guests such as New York-based designer and creative Ella Emhoff who opened the Paolina Russo show. Meanwhile, poet, activist, musician and trans model Kai-Isaiah Jamal offered a welcome surprise closing out Anne Sofie Madsen. Danish actress Linnea Berthelsen – who played Kali or Eight in hit Netflix show Stranger Things – meanwhile, made a cameo on the catwalk for stalwart designer Henrik Vibskov.
And on the inclusivity front, OperaSport kicked off the week by having an expectant model open the show in a look which emphasised and flattered her baby bump, followed by an Alana Hadid surprise moment. More pregnant mothers sauntered down the Niklas Skovgaard runway, and a varied cast of older models were sent down the Henrik Vibskov and The Garment catwalks. What’s more, the Gestuz, Paolina Russo and Taus shows all made sure to integrate plus-size models. With dwindling plus-size representation on runways across the big four, it was a welcome addition – but, of course, there’s always room for improvement.
Anne Sofie Madsen AW26
Menswear
Menswear usually takes a bit of a backseat when it comes to CPHFW. There wasn’t much to see this season, but quality made up for quantity. London and Reykjavik-based label Ranra ensured that its affinity for traditional outerwear was a next level affair: think fur lined hoods and collars on full display coupled with seamless tailoring showcasing relaxed, unstructured styles. O.Files, meanwhile, made its debut and highlighted the crux of the brand – Scandinavian minimalism, Italian craftsmanship and Japanese origami – with ease. Leaning on polished essentials and tailored trousers, the mood was everyday-garments-meet-elevated-classics.
Now, it’s not CPHFW without mentioning menswear frontrunner Sunflower. Bagging the closing slot, the brand’s show inside The Library Bar, which is located within the famed Hotel Plaza, was an intimate presentation with two live performances – one by Soho Rezanejad, and the other by August Rosenbaum. In the dimly lit space, textured knits worked hard with long denim separates. The highlight, though? Corduroy suits in warm tobacco tones. Not a want, but a need.
O.Files AW26
Celebrate good times, come on!
CPHFW wasn’t the only one celebrating a major anniversary. Icelandic outwear brand 66 North kicked offits year-long centennial anniversary celebrations by not only unveiling the new AW26 collection – which celebrates hero products like the Dyngja Down, and leans more deeply into its fisherman heritage by introducing a new fishnet-inspired print called Trawl – the brand hosted a dinner to keep the celebration going, enlisting two-star Michelin restaurant Kadeau for the occasion.
The best was saved for last though, as we toasted to 20 years of CPHFW at a 400-person dinner that saw former CEO Eva Kruse and current CEO Cecilie Thorsmark highlight the milestone moments throughout the Danish fashion week’s history. A melting pot of designers, models, press and industry leaders – Kelly Rutherford, Mona Tougaard and Holger Rune, to name just a few – enjoyed the swanky sit down, which led on to an afterparty.
This is only part one – we’re sure August’s edition will have plenty more surprises in store. See you on the other side!
Top image: photography by James Cochrane courtesy of Henrik Vibskov.
Sunflower AW26
