Back in 1875, a young Arthur Lasenby Liberty had a dream. He envisioned a London emporium awash with the vibrant luxuries and fabrics of far away lands. And, with only £2,000 from his future father-in-law, he put the pedal to the metal and created just that. First with a shop on Regents Street and just three staff, Liberty London was born. The Great Marlborough Street shop we know and love came just 49 years later, opening its doors in 1924.
Now, in its 150th year, Liberty has called upon the illustrious Frida Giannini, a former creative director of Gucci (and the longest standing one at that), to create a bespoke collection celebrating this sesquicentennial anniversary. Called Hypernova 150 – after the rare event in which a strong stellar explosion creates many new stars –, the collection counts 40 pieces of ready-to-wear ranging from velvet dresses and double-breasted coats to accessories – there are seven different bags up for grabs – all with a rock ‘n’ roll sensibility infused with unapologetic glamour.
Inherently British, the palette is based on the Union Jack, while outerwear pulls codes from the uniform worn by the British Navy and Japanese-inspired prints come from Liberty’s archive. Giannini also draws on techniques such as devoré velvet, metallic foiling and bold silk prints, blending craft with energy. “I took the strongest British statement – graphically powerful and recognizable – the Union Jack. I redesigned it with the Hypernova in mind, adding Liberty’s symbolic colours,” Giannini explains. “The navy felted cashmere peacoats and long admiral’s coats come from the British navy. The Japanese-inspired prints come from Liberty’s archive – revisited and printed on iridescent silk velvets.”
Then there’s the logo, a modernist double L monogram designed by Giannini that appears across the collection, joined by a more organic version enriched with guilloché detailing, reflecting Liberty’s balance of refinement and rebellion.
Speaking on some of her favourite products from the offering, she says, “I developed a “bedroom” concept with the pajama, boxer shorts and the reversible kimono – to be worn separately too, over vintage denim jeans. But my favourite piece is the felted cashmere double-breasted Nelson coat, fully lined with the all-over Union Jack print – all the marina peacoats – and the suede fringe bag with the new monogram, which is “hyper” rock.” Other standouts include a reworked archival velvet dress, a recoloured Scottish kilt and metallic-detailed silk pyjamas – each underscoring Giannini’s precision and Liberty’s avant-garde spirit.
Giannini was inspired by Liberty’s quintessential status in British culture as well as its physical proximity to Carnaby Street which has long been a symbol of countercultural style and music in the Big Smoke. It’s a celebration of contrasts, in fact – elegance and edge, heritage and rebellion, British tradition and modern glamour. “I started looking into the archives,” she says, “for a strong element of contrast that could meld the heritage, Carnaby Street, and the music – my great passion – to take over Liberty for the next 150 years. To me, Hypernova is about new stars being born – not nostalgia, but transformation.”
This collection marks Giannini’s official return to the fashion industry after a 10-year hiatus spent collaborating with brands from behind the scenes. Why? “I felt it was the right time for my comeback, and Liberty the perfect partner,” says Giannini. “I have lived in London for many years for work and visited often for pleasure. Liberty was always a place never to miss – an inspiration.”
She continues, “I have always loved Liberty – the history, the collaborations with designers like William Morris and Sonia Delaunay, and the artists who wore their fabrics, from Oscar Wilde to David Bowie. Arthur Liberty was a pioneer in discovering the East and the Silk Road, bringing back to England revolutionary ideas before any fashion trend. Liberty, to me, is the quintessence of England – between Carnaby Street, emblem of the social revolution, Swinging London, punk and studs, and Savile Row – place of tradition, craftsmanship, tailoring, and upper-class destination. The beautiful Victorian-style building, 150 years old, still captures everyone’s eyes for its uniqueness. While climbing the wooden stairs, one can still smell the history and breathe the freedom – past and modernity. To me, Liberty is an international container where you can live a unique experience surrounded by people of all nationalities – a unique melting pot.” Hypernova 150, she notes, was about honouring that legacy while reimagining it through modern eyes.
What’s next for Giannini? “Who knows? Hahahaha,” she laughs. “At the moment, I am totally focused on this project and its success. Then we will see. Every time I make plans for the future, something comes up and turns everything upside down.” And maybe that’s the beauty of it – much like Liberty itself, her journey thrives on reinvention, surprise, and a fearless embrace of what comes next.
Hypernova 150 is available for purchase exclusively at Liberty London and on Liberty’s website. Photography courtesy of Liberty.
Frida Giannini