March 7, 2025 |
Fresh from his Blumarine creative director debut, David Koma returns to his namesake label with a collection that feels as celebratory as it is sculptural. Marking the brand’s 15th anniversary, AW25 is a masterclass in shape – cut sharp, blown up, pared-back and polished.
Referencing darling 1950s silhouettes and couture codes, Koma modernises classic forms through unexpected fabric juxtapositions and embroidery with an edge (literally). Black, white and Klein blue anchor the collection’s palette, punctuated by sharp silver accents. Architectural necklines, first sketched in his Central Saint Martins graduate collection, evolve into inspired dimensions while cinched waists and exaggerated hips play in striking opposition, crafting a razor-sharp hourglass silhouette. Transparency – an ongoing love affair – also takes centre stage in sheer tulle gowns that engulf the space around them in grand proportions.
Throughout, texture shapes the narrative. Supple leather drapes and shreds into hypnotic fringe, sequins sculpt statuesque column gowns and crinkle taffeta bubbles into a sport-inflected skirt. A silver button-sculpted dress maps the body with sharp, almost triangular precision. Elsewhere, circles appear in 2D, morphing into sleeves before shrinking into polka dots that sprawl across plush pink layers or cluster into oversized feather pom-poms on single-sleeved, backless gowns.
Masculine tailoring meets ultra-feminine proportions, punctuated by crystal embellishments that trace the collarbone down to the breast. Against his signature monochrome, that Klein blue shock continues to electrify the lookbook. AW25 isn’t just an anniversary – it’s Koma redesigning his own legacy, one radical shape at a time.
Photography courtesy of David Koma.
