February 12, 2025 |
Leave it to Thom Browne to provide a necessary jolt of fashion escapism to close out New York Fashion Week. The designer has taken to presenting his runway show every February as the last spot on the schedule, with each year being more fantastical than the last. As usual, he transformed a dark space inside Hudson Yards’ art space, The Shed, leading us into a room with 2000 origami paper cranes dotting the centre of the floor. The inspiration? Birds as a symbol of hope and freedom, as the show notes included a quote that read “How marvellous would it be, to be exactly who we wish to be?” With a soundtrack that included a selection of songs from the 2023 coming of age film White Bird and other avian-themed tracks, it seemed Browne was looking to give us the escape that we so craved.
A Thom Browne runway presentation doesn’t simply open with a model, it’s a performance. On this occasion a duo appeared, ornithologists clad in parkas. As they walked to the centre, sitting at the desk, they shed their outerwear in favour of the brand’s classic uniform – suiting complete with sheer argyle socks peeking out from over-the-knee suede waders. Only after they’ve settled in, as silent observers, can the show begin.
And what a series of deliciously odd birds did these observers see before them. Browne looked to heritage tweeds and tailoring to inform his collection. But far from being your staid suiting and overcoats, it took on fantastical shapes. From a cocoon-like coat that mimicked a barrel chester flycatcher to larger than life dresses that resembled paper dolls to gilded topcoats, the designer spun familiar pieces into unique creations. Suiting was both shrunken and supersized while skirts and shorts veered from short to floor grazing, with the show notes pointing out that no two hemlines were the same. Also folded into the mix were collegiate-themed pieces, with a tweed football pinnie and a varsity jacket emblazoned with the number 65, a reference to when the designer was born. In keeping with the bird theme, makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench created feather lashes in a slew of colours while the lips nodded to collegiate stripes. To finish, delicate tears dotted the cheeks.
To end the 64 look parade, two gleaming designs stood out from the rest – the rarest of the birds to cross our path. The penultimate was a Swarovski crystal trompe l’oeil shift made to resemble a sleeveless jacket and tie, while Alek Wek closed out the affair. Her gown, made from 40 meters of heritage tweed was topped off with an embroidered gold jacket and served as a fitting exclamation point. But Browne wasn’t quite done yet. It’s become customary for his runway bow to include a shared moment with his partner Andrew Bolton, since the show always falls around Valentine’s Day. Last year, he offered up a giant heart shaped box of candy. This time? Naturally a bouquet of a dozen origami roses.
Photography courtesy of Thom Browne.
