February 26, 2025 |
In a time of flux what can a brand do? Gucci offered the idea of continuum – a culture passed down from one generation to the next. It was an elegant way to focus on the consistency of craft, and steer the conversation away from designer speculation at the house which is currently between creative directors. The Ancora red of recent seasons has been replaced by Gucci green, taken from the brands distinctive ribbon – it appeared on invites, covered the show space and billboards around Milan. It marked a transition, as the design team stepped up for AW25.
They produced a polished take on the Gucci look, rooted in the 1960s, when the house first launched ready to wear and tracing Gucci’s jet set and disco eras as well as touching on its nineties sexiness. Plush faux fur coats, ladylike tweedy pencil skirts, lace trimmed slips vinyl coats and a disco-era velour monogramed catsuit cinched by a wide horse-bit belt, represented looks looks were nostalgic but put together in a way that side stepped the retro trap. For men skinny double breasted suits with trousers slit at the heel, and roomy leather overcoats were the story.
The big brand message was emphasised by the staging. The models walked on a vast Gucci green catwalk which mirrored the brand’s the interlocking G logo, as musicians performed to an original score by Oscar-winning composer Justin Hurwitz. The accessories motored along with a focus on the horsebit. It’s 50 years old this year but appeared on many new iterations – on fluffy totes, squishy little pouches and ladylike handbags. There’s plenty to buy here and many covetable pieces particularly outerwear. That was reflected in applause for the design team, dressed in Gucci green T-shirts as they took a collective bow. Gucci marches on.
Photography courtesy of Gucci.
