Tolu Coker: Ready-To-Wear AW25

A poignant presentation full of expert tailoring – cinched, pleated and layered – Tolu Coker’s AW25 showcase had something to say. With models carrying stalks of cotton and a band playing a smooth rendition of Billie Holiday’s Strange Fruit, it made you stop and think, as Coker continued to carve out a space for Black narratives and the diasporic experience within the fashion arena.

Focused on slowing down and embracing the Yoruba concept of òrí, representing one’s spiritual intuition and destiny, Coker’s ORI – Upon Reflection offering delved deep into the essence of self. These garments served as vessels of memory and culture, transforming clothing into a medium for storytelling and preservation.

The collection paid homage to the flowing white garments of Aladura churches, ceremonial attire from Candomblé, Lucumí and Santería traditions, as well as the ritual dress of Black spiritual practices in Louisiana and Haiti. Classic European tailoring wove through these influences, creating a dialogue between the sacred and the structured.

Adding just the right amount of glamour, collaborations with Manolo Blahnik for footwear and Virna Pasquinelli for sculpted hats elevated the collection, blending historical inspiration with contemporary design. Meanwhile the presentation, which was configured to feel like guests had direct access to the cutting room, invited audiences into Coker’s creative process, fostering a communal space that bridged the gap between maker and observer. All backed by live band led by Grammy-winning producer Gaetan Judd, it was a truly evocative multi-sensory experience.

ORI – Upon Reflection transcended traditional fashion presentations, offering an emotive exploration of spirituality, identity and heritage. Through meticulous craftsmanship and profound cultural narratives, Tolu Coker redefined fashion as a living archive, honouring the past while shaping the future.

Photography courtesy of Tolu Coker.

tolucoker.uk

Shopping cart0
There are no products in the cart!
Continue shopping