February 7, 2025 |
A few things are certain when you attend a Collina Strada show. You’ll see a creative cast of models walking the runway including perennial favourites Aaron Rose Phillips and Kathleen McCain Engman. The front row will be filled with a slew of cool kids including Ella Emhoff, Meg Donnelly, and King Princess. And lastly, founder Hillary Taymour will always have a creative soundtrack to set the tone. Last season it was a version of Ashlee Simpson’s iconic Y2K anthem Pieces of Me, with the lyrics rewritten to capture the brand’s eco-friendly ethos. This time around, it was a steady stream of familiar favourites, again adapted for Taymour’s message of sustainable living. Kicking off the show with a version of Enya’s Orinoco Flow before segueing into Destiny’s Child’s Independent Women, Part 1., the mood was decidedly upbeat for one of the first shows of a subdued New York Fashion Week.
Matriarchy and the trappings of traditional feminism was examined through the lens of change and working towards a kinder world. That was evident when you stepped into the space and were greeted with several children playing with pink and purple kitchen sets. For Taymour, these represent repressive gendered tropes that begin with childhood no longer serve us. That message was repeated again as you sat down and waited for the show to start, with bubblegum Japanese girlie pop serving as the soundtrack. Revel in the joy of girlhood but never let it force you into a predestined path.
As for the clothes, the idea of taking what you need and letting go of what doesn’t was also evident. The Collina Strada team found themselves in New Jersey thrift stores to source materials. Men’s wool coats were stripped and rebuilt into softer silhouettes. Gauzy ruched dresses, a brand signature, floated down in muted tones as well as in black. Taymour also thrifted three wedding dresses, transforming them into her vision for bridal, complete with a dramatic kiss between two brides in the middle of the runway to cheers from the crowd. Everything felt seasonless, fitting for a new climate where one day it’s completely possible to be in a sheer skirt while another might call for warmer fare like a giant striped sweater with matching scarf.
The idea of protection and armour also factored into the clothes and accessories. Giant star shaped sunglasses, balaclavas, hoods and other face-obscuring garments served to disguise in a world that feels less kind. Per the show notes, it’s intended for “hiding the tears, turning them into something else. Letting our freak flag fly, while knowing that sometimes stealth is survival.” While the upper half of the body might be focused on shielding from harm, the bottom half took a lighter tone. The brand worked with both Puma on iterations of their Mostro sneakers, as well as with Fctry Lab, an independent footwear label. Colourful and playful, it was exactly the type of contradiction that the Collina Strada customer revels in embodying.
Photography by Alessandro Viero on behalf of GoRunway.
