October 22, 2024 |
In the early 18th century – 1704 to be exact – the 4th Earl of Orrery commissioned clockmakers George Graham and Thomas Tompion to create the Orrery, a first-of-its-kind mechanical device that would “model the movements of celestial bodies in the solar system”. An instrument of complex scientific study and in itself, a work of art, the Orrery worked to demonstrate the precision and awe-inspiring beauty of space through a new (at the time) expression of craftsmanship.
Now, in the third 886 by The Royal Mint jewellery collection to come from the mind of creative director Dominic Jones, the mechanical movements of the Orrery are reimagined in yellow gold and azure blue. Featuring everything from necklaces and bracelets to earrings and brooches, the Orrery jewellery collection is split into two subdivisions: Night Sky and Shooting Star. The former, made from mesmerising cobalt blue glass enamel, works to update core 886 styles including the bar pendant, hoop earrings and signet ring. There are also a selection of statement evening pieces such as an enamel choker, necklace, bracelet and brooch in 18ct yellow and white gold with tiny, diamond encrusted stars and overlapping orbital elements.
Shooting Star, on the other hand, orbits around the “beauty of the precious metal and carries through the sleek brushed metal finish – a contrast of high polish riveted stars with the brushed surface plays to the innovative use of metal in coin design.” It features a star-hinged oval bangle, star motif pendants and rings, small and large studs and drop star huggie hoops with comet tails. Ear cuffs are also introduced for the very first time, enlarged in size and detailed with, you guessed it, stars.
Perhaps the pinnacle of the celestial collection, an extremely detailed 3D scan of the surface of the moon, “struck using traditional coin making processes and finished with a fine layer of clear enamel”, is rendered as a clasp detail on the Night Sky choker and in a statement Moon signet ring.
Apart from the Orrery and its universal mechanisms, the collection also pays homage to The Royal Mint’s heritage by spotlighting a process called Hexurity. Defined by “the controlled interplay of light with metal”, Hexurity is “known for its application as a security feature but admired for its ability to sculpt the movement of light”. Jones expands, “Hexurity is combining surface animation with micro detailing to create the illusion of movement, which reminded me of the way Fabergé used engine engraving behind enamelling to bring it to life. I felt there was an opportunity to create a new form of Guilloche enamelling for 886, combined with the cobalt blue – referencing the Orrery I discovered in the Science Museum – it truly comes to light when the piece is in movement.” According to Jones, Hexurity was actually the collection’s starting point; it wasn’t until he was walking through London’s Science Museum that he came across Orreries. “One [Orrery] in particular I felt was especially beautiful,” he says. And so, “whilst reading about how it was inspired by Sir Isaac Newton [former warden and master of The Royal Mint and the physicist whose work is often credited as the inspiration for the first Orrery] theories on light”, Jones found that it was a great visual representation of what he wanted to explore.
An out of this world collection, Orrery from 886 by The Royal Mint is a stunning display of the house’s aptitude for precision and boundless artistry. Discover Orrery here.
Photography courtesy of 886 The Royal Mint.
