September 28, 2024 |
Has Andreas Kronthaler at Vivienne Westwood been swept up in “very mindful, very demure” mania? He described the collection as “ultra feminine and rather elegant, in the most classic way”. For Westwood that has always meant putting bombshell shapes on women of substance. Kronthaler calls it “brainy sexiness”. He sent out knitted wiggle dresses with deep-V décolleté. He focused on texture, not print, with alluring sheer knits worn in veiled layers. Billowing cape dresses (long and short), added a swashbuckling element. Bustier tops worn with tailoring or swishing dirndls provided that much sought after Westwood oomph.
The designer called his show Calibrate, and spoke of being “on a new road.” Dialling down the bonkers, (last season Sam Smith performed in a thong and mini kilt), he showed off the appeal the Westwood wardrobe. All roads lead to brainy sexiness.
Photography Courtesy of Vivienne Westwood.
