September 27, 2024 |
A visceral showcase of figure-flattering garments, severe and dipped in sophisticated sex appeal, the SS25 Mugler catwalk was a high-velocity celebration of its 50th anniversary.
Founded in 1973 by the late and great Thierry Mugler, current creative director Casey Cadwallader dug deep into the brand’s archives to deliver a range of reinterpreted Mugler classics. That meant tailoring was sharp and unapologetically fierce while corseted peplum blazers created addicting contours. A collection standout was a clear PVC mac layered over a netted mini dress of crystal water droplets created in collaboration with Baccarat.
The flower emerged as an ode to Paris, the home of the brand, and to the history of haute couture, perhaps harking back to the founder’s SS82 collection wherein he transformed his models into huge, blooming flowers. Reconfiguring the flower here through a science-fiction lens, lithe layers of angular ‘petals’ in hand-painted velvet jacquards swerved across slender figures like waves. On a personal note, the flora also recalled Cadwaller’s recent, meditative summer, which he spent gardening at his countryside abode in Fontainebleau.
Models with dark, dangerous makeup had their hair slicked back with added angular bangs courtesy of hair artist Zhou Xue Ming. Cardi B, who watched from the front row, had her hair coiffed into the same vision-concealing style.
Clutched in spikey-manicured hands, a new bat-shaped bag, aptly titled The Fang, made its runway debut, rounding off the looks with a ferocious bite.
Photography courtesy of Mugler.
