February 24, 2024 |
Blumarine has entered into a new groove. In the skilful hands of newly appointed creative director Walter Chiapponi, Nicola Brognano’s bedazzled butterflies, hyper sexed-up silhouettes and Y2K revival is a thing of the past. Chiapponi’s debut – inspired by co-founder Anna Molinari and her archival collections – focussed on refined, everyday dressing with an added touch of romance. Chiapponi bid adieu to the blaring sexiness of the brand’s last few collections, opting for romance instead. The rear of one look plainly stated in block lettering “Je retourne à l’amour” (I return to love). What was once sex on a stick, was now a kiss from a rose.
There were silken florals (and three-dimensional flowers), as well as casual light wash denims, lace trimming and bold “I Love You” graphics. Silhouettes were subdued, built from shirts and trousers or T-shirts and jeans for the most part, but there were also pyjamas, frothy gowns and knit frocks. The Milanese designer made a U-turn on the colours too, replacing the muted hues of the brand’s more recent shows with vivid, dizzying blasts of red and yellow which sat alongside supple taupes, whites, blacks and pale blues. The brighter ensembles were layered atop leopard print tights with cute high heels shaped like ballet pointe shoes.
There was one look though, that touched on the cornerstones of noughties nostalgia: a pale pink knit co-ord made up of a marabou pom pom cardigan and streamlined midi skirt felt like a softcore version of something Brognano’s frequent muse Paris Hilton might wear. But at the same time, it had a pared-back air to it, giving precedent to Chiapponi’s new vision.
Photography courtesy of Blumarine.
