February 22, 2024 |
Quintessential Milanese brand No.21 transported us to the ‘80s for AW24. Embodying a disorderly spirit, the 41-look collection, aptly named Anarchical Glamour, turned the outdated idea of bon ton (or bourgeois chic as the label explains) on its head. Using traditional 1980’s haute couture silhouettes as a base, designer and founder Alessandro Dell’Acqua intentionally altered proportions and mismatched fabrics to evoke themes of freedom and rebellion.
Neat wool suits were shaken up with raw-edging and sprays of jet-black beading, whilst sheer panelling was integrated throughout to evoke an element of eroticism. A slight sweetness was conveyed through A-line dresses sporting scrunched bow necklines and fabulously fluffy scarves in pastel pink and turquoise. Skirts were pleated or super-mini, adding a slight splash of punk and leopard faux-fur coats reminded onlookers that the No.21 woman may be cute, but she is not to be tussled with. Elegant slingback heels adorned with criss-cross detailing felt reminiscent of a tightly pulled bustier, whilst patent leather derby shoes added a tougher edge. The brand’s chunky Malibu bag was reimagined in differing colours and proportions, whilst the Jeanne was spattered with crystals and nestled into armpits. Rule-breaking and rabble rousing, it was a thing of beauty.
Photography courtesy of No.21
