February 19, 2024 |
Conner Ives – the American designer who’s been lauded for his manifestations of female archetypes and Americana, expunged all that this season. The AW24 collection he sent stepping into a salon style ballroom at The Savoy on Sunday bid to celebrate the real women that inspire him, rather than creating imaginary characters. In the show notes, he writes about these women, calling them his ‘swans’, the women, socialites, friends, and muses etc. who have kept him in a “state of awe”. This grown-up outing was his take on “The modern-day Swan.”
“Since the beginning of my career, my work has been platformed, guided and influenced by my swans,” he writes. “Tish Weinstock, Ella Richards and etc. are muses; constant inspiration and moral support. Chloe Nardin and Josie Sidhu were my swans while I was studying at school. Being classmates and fellow fans of fashion, these relationships eclipse just the concept of me making clothes for my friends. Each woman has shaped me into the persona I am today in more ways than I can recall.”
Alex Consani opened, wearing a flouncy tiered dress with knee high gogo boots. In her wake came a troupe of fabulous models, periodically striking a pose. They sported flimsy dresses, graphic hoodies or T-shirts, bulbous satin skirts, and cosy overcoats, all with Jimmy Choo’s on their feet. Ive’s quintessential ruching cropped up in a dress, worn by Alva Claire, and a white T-shirt with a cobalt and red ‘Conner Ives Ice Cream’ graphic. As for the Americana? Utterly absent. Look what a few years in London can do.
Tish Weinstock – named in the notes – closed the show. To Bjork’s ‘Headphones’, she stepped out slowly, wearing a delicate white lace gown. At first it seemed a token virtuous finale, but at second glance you noticed the cordonnets were, in fact, wired Apple headphones. Sound on. Ives is stepping out of his comfort zone.
Photography courtesy of Conner Ives.
