September 14, 2023 |
Harris Reed’s spring/summer 2024 offering embraced all the glitz-coated theatricality that the American-British designer is known for. In classic Reed style, the display was two days off-schedule, preparing onlookers for what’s set to be a fantastically eclectic London Fashion Week season. Set in a moodily-lit Tate Modern basement, the runway awoke with a spotlight, closely followed by the resonant vocals of Peckham-born singer Cosima. An apt kick off for a collection, entitled Duet, the pieces embraced the ambiguity of masculinity and femininity alongside the contrast between rigidity and curves. By equipping models with towering heels and assembling a diverse cast featuring both trans and non-binary models, Reed set the stage for a show that celebrated the multifaceted aspects of beauty and strength.
Opening the show was regular collaborator Ashley Graham – who was Reed’s muse for the 2023 Met Gala – cinched by a golden corset sitting prettily over a skintight velvet gown accompanied by a plush and full-bodied drape. What followed was a sculptural and shape-centric fantasy of the Harris Reed kind. Swooping, crinoline hems and exaggerated bodices were coated with a generous helping of opulent fabrics. Milliner Vivienne Lake outfitted looks with her signature oversized and campy headwear – one mirrored a thimble-shaped pincushion spattered with delicate glass-head pins. Reed – who juggles running his own house with the creative directorship he secured at Parisian couture house Nina Ricci in 2022 – truly created a love letter to his craft. Also partnering with jewelry brand Missoma to create custom silver and pearl breast cups, the offering was an indulgent display of creativity and craft.
Acquiring quite the star-studded fan club, ranging from Harry Styles to Jodie Turner Smith, Reed’s front row mirrored this facet of his appeal, with Munroe Bergdorf, Maisie Williams and Charithra Chandran all applauding as the runway came to a close. Decadent, delicious and a spectacle from beginning to end, Reed has once again proven when it comes to sumptuous glamour, he’s at the top of his game.
Photography by Suleika Mueller.
