August 23, 2023 |
BLINGIN’ IT IS TEN’S ONLINE SERIES WHERE WE SPOTLIGHT THE INNOVATORS AND CHANGE-MAKERS OF THE JEWELLERY WORLD.
Imagine intricate webs of gemstones that glisten and gleam – each imbued with organically occurring remedial properties. That’s the blueprint of Ananya Malhotra’s namesake brand, Ananya, the London label crafting glamorous bourgeois jewellery (inspired by Hindu and Buddhist philosophies, gallery visits and world travels, among other abounding things) that check in with the Chakras and the body’s spiritual state with irrepressible charm.
From Sanskrit, Ananya translates to “unique”, and aptly so, as all the fruits of Malhotra’s labour are completely one-of-a-kind, never to be repeated or made redundant. And no doubt since the designer crafts fine jewellery and bespoke objects of desire for women who are confident in themselves and not afraid to be bold or express their distinctive feminine sides.
Growing up in Chennai, India, Malhotra found herself fascinated by the rich tradition rooted in historic Indian jewellery design and the profound spiritual meaning found in family heirlooms. As such, delving into design was something of an obvious and naturally occurring evolution for the designer, who was immersed in the fantasy of fashion and design from a young age via her parents’ multi-designer store, Evoluzione. Malhotra would go on to study at Central Saint Martins and the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) in London where she was educated on everything from stone grading to Freud’s psychological theory of dreams and surrealism – theorems that continue to inform her work today. Originally naming the brand “Naya” which means “new”, she created her brand to spark a shift in modern India’s perspective on jewellery. Now located between her motherland (Chennai), London and Miami, Ananya taps into prevailing anxieties over the spiritual bankruptcy of Western consumerist society, materialism and a lack of South Asian cultural capital on a global scale and in terms of the diaspora.
Over the past seven years, her brand – which launched in 2017 – has developed this indelible cult following of customers and celebrity fans who swear by Ananya, even achieving global notoriety with Malhotra’s Scatter Floating rings and earrings and Chakra bracelets wrapped around the fingers modern starlets and supermodels like Dua Lipa, Gigi Hadid, Kate Moss, Jenna Ortega and Taylor Swift.
Known for its coveted energy-balancing Chakra collection, Ananya has now ventured to its latest iteration of the line: the Chakra Icon collection. Displaying the same twisted diamond knot that ornaments the original Chakra designs with over one carat of snow-set diamonds, the brand new streamlined bracelets are available in a symphony of 18-karat white, rose and yellow gold, building upon the holistic ethos of their predecessors, and harnessing the mystic qualities of crystals and gemstones. Malhotra herself wears the rudimentary Chakra bracelet with moonstone beads – which channel lunar energy to bring balance between the chakras – each and every day. She pairs that with her personal Chakra Icons and another Chakra tennis bracelet decked with dazzling rainbow sapphires and glimmering emeralds – a protective stone and Malhotra’s lucky charm.
As we watch the future of Ananya unfold before us, it’s cementing its place as a harmonising pillar for those seeking the healing powers of precious and semi-precious stones.
Chakra Icon Collection
ON THE BIRTH OF ANANYA
Malhotra: “Fashion has [always] been an integral part of my life and I was lucky to be exposed to designers, with whom my mum works, and to their craft growing up. Much of my inspiration comes from their intricate techniques and style. Time spent in my dad’s factory also allowed me to learn to cut patterns and I was lucky to work with his design team over the summers on new projects. My parents have always encouraged and inspired me and created an environment for me to explore my creativity. I was always drawn to working in the design world however I did not fully understand my love for jewellery until my foundation year at Central Saint Martins. From that moment, there was no going back, I had found my true passion.
“Whilst studying at CSM, I took the time to return to India to embark on a journey of exploration. I wanted to discover more about its roots and the history of jewellery. It is deeply embedded culturally and in us and yet, Indian jewellery had become superficial and materialistic. It planted a great desire in me to create a brand and jewellery which would remind people of its beautiful heritage and the true meaning behind [Indian] jewellery and design.”
ON FINDING INSPIRATION IN THE MAHARAJAS AND INDIAN TRADITION
Malhotra: “The use of intricate inlays, such as mother of pearl, abalone and coloured stones was historically inspired by the Maharajas and the Mughal rulers. They appreciated this complex and beautiful design and the gemstones long before anyone else I know. They set the precedent for craft, design and an appreciation for beautiful creations which is so deeply embedded in our culture. All of my jewellery is inspired by old Indian techniques with a modern twist. The pieces, for me personally, represent my appreciation and gratitude to those who founded the true craft in India and who paved the way for me to create, to design and to pioneer historical Indian techniques into a modern interpretation of Indian jewellery.”
Chakra Icon Collection
ON THE SPIRITUALLY HEALING PROPERTIES OF PRECIOUS STONES
Malhotra: “My grandparents are very spiritual people and during my time spent with them we would get into deep discussions about the importance of Karma, the meaning of life and the dharmic cycle. When I studied at the GIA [the Gemological Institute of America] I learnt about the mineral properties and how to grade stones and went on to study their spiritual and healing properties. In my pursuit to harness the healing qualities, I began to interpret their varied symbolism and strengths, setting them smoothly against the skin in the Chakra bracelets and other collections in the brand.”
ON CONCOCTING THE CHAKRA AND CHAKRA ICON COLLECTIONS
Malhotra: “The Chakra collection was first inspired by my love of kaleidoscopic and colourful gemstones. In my pursuit to harness their healing qualities, I began to interpret their varied symbolism and strengths, setting them smoothly against the skin in the Chakra bracelet. Bringing bold colour to the fore with vivid gems, mixed metals and gleaming pearls, the Chakra collection can be mixed and matched to create a truly personal take on wrist stack styling.
“Channelling the bold femininity of the original Chakra bracelet, the Chakra Icon collection re-interprets the original creation in solid 18- karat gold. The Chakra bracelet’s signature design codes are newly celebrated in a symphony of 18 karat white, rose and yellow gold, offering enduring elegance and universal appeal. The Chakra Icon collection offers a lasting legacy, transforming traditional wrist styling.”
Magnificent Jewels Collection
ON REINVIGORATING AN APPRECIATION FOR INDIAN JEWELLERY
Malhotra: “In Indian culture, jewellery has always been deemed to hold value, represent significant family heirlooms and have a certain security aspect to it. However, I came to learn that there is so much more to it than that. It is not simply used to represent wealth at weddings or to provide security, and the sad reality is that this is what it became about. People stopped appreciating the creativity, the designs, the inspiration and the beautiful traditional techniques used to create the pieces.
“However, over the past two or three years, mindsets have evolved. Younger women who, once upon a time, felt the burden of being requested to wear large jewellery sets that were then to be locked in a safe until the next family wedding, are now coming out to buy pieces that they can enjoy everyday. I have noticed a remarkable change in the age and attitude of the buyers and I truly appreciate their newfound confidence and appreciation for design. It empowers me.”
ON CREATING TIMELESS HEIRLOOM JEWELLERY
Malhotra: “My hope is that the pieces will be associated with fond memories and that they are then passed onto the next generation and they celebrate their own moments and traditions. I believe that these pieces are talismans and carry their energies as they get passed on and build into life’s fabric.”
Photography courtesy of Ananya.
Chakra Collection
