July 5, 2023 |
Last season’s animalistic couture outing landed Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry in a bed of hot water. His surrealist frocks, featuring hyper-real, faux lion and leopard heads, were so believable that folks online naively thought the house had severed them straight off the limp frames of actual big cats.
This time around, no kings of the jungle were in sight. Instead, Roseberry looked to the kingpins of the art world, many of whom Elsa Schiaparelli rubbed shoulders with. Every look, he said, was inspired in some way by an artist. Dating back to the 1920s, he looked the work of everyone from Salvador Dalí and Lucian Freud, right up to Sarah Lucas, amongst others.
Whilst his previous outings have leant heavily into the surrealist foundations of the house, this couture collection saw a more spontaneous side to Roseberry. Dresses came fashioned from painterly swirls, whilst Yves Klein blue migrated from skater skirts to the necks and torsos of models. Elegant duvet coats proved a highlight, as did a parade of sensually draped corseted frocks with goddess-like qualities. “I wanted this collection to be aggressively, unmistakably human – and to be rooted in artistic references that feel timeless. To dress, decorate, but most importantly, to create, is as primitive as any instinct we have.”
Photography courtesy of Schiaparelli.
