March 4, 2023 |
Would Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe give us more of the wearable sculptures he’s shown of late? His surreal ‘objet couture’ (lipstick heels, lips dresses, lily bustiers) has sent Loewe into the viral fashion stratosphere but for AW23, it was time for a change of tac. Following up from his menswear, the designer dialled down the eccentricity, describing his collection as a “reductions act…bringing it forward and reducing it further.” The message? Calm down, people.
His models, walking gracefully between cubes of compressed confetti (courtesy of the artist Lara Favaretto) in a huge tent in the grounds of Chateau Vancines, expressed something calmer. Simple, loose silk shifts were printed with tromp l’oeil impressions of dresses, rain macs or fur coats. Others came in watery prints that looked like faded photocopies of a once vibrant floral. Imperfection became a detail. A cardigan was printed with deep creases. Intimacy was also on the agenda as were the gestures we make with our clothes. Silk gowns came with cloaks attached that had to be clutched tight, or had trailing trains that needed to be hugged close to the body by the models. Oversized coats (one glinting all over with coal coloured sequins) and supersized shoppers were the chic stand-outs in a collection full of covetable clothes. We’ve come to expect the zing of something eccentric from Loewe and JW Anderson didn’t disappoint with vinyl lampshade dresses and fully feather trousers worn with matching tees.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
