March 3, 2023 |
Some people think the pyramids were built by aliens. If those ancient futurists had a courtier it would be Rick Owens. His models often look like mysterious, superior beings – it’s as if he’s circumvented the Prime Directive, (where space travellers must not interfere with less advanced civilisations).
They walk amongst us but look otherworldly. “I want them to be Avedon-worthy,” said the designer of his extraordinary AW23 silhouettes – arrived at by imagining Dovima, (the fifties supermodel Avedon famously photographed with elephants), wearing one of his gowns. He channeled his own code of elegance into remarkable silhouettes. Quilted silk donut stoles that enveloped the body, were the standout pieces. Dresses were slashed to the armpit to reveal knickers and Owens’ pyramid shoulders reached ever higher creating a frame for the face.
Matte sequins, brought a brushed metallic sheen to coats and fishtail gowns. “Times like these might call for a respectful formality and sobriety with moments of delicacy as reminders of what is at risk and at stake,” he said referring to the one year anniversary of the war in Ukraine. Elegance and simplicity, Owens-style, were his response.
The designer named his show Luxor, after the ancient Egyptian city, where he likes to spend time in the winter. His fascination runs deep. One of his most prized possessions is an ancient Egyptian sarcophagus which travels with him between his homes. On their raised runway and platform boots models looked like goddesses, bridging space, time and chic.
Photography by Christina Fragkou.
