February 24, 2023 |
Back in January, backstage at Prada’s menswear show, Raf Simons spoke of his and Mrs Prada’s shared fascination for uniforms that don’t involve violence. That collection dissected day-to-day garments worn by blue-collar workers, in a study of the fundamental components that make our wardrobe. Their womenswear outing, held just a day shy of the first anniversary of the Ukraine war, was inspired by “uniforms that represent care”, particularly nurses. “There is the notion in fashion that only glamour is important, I hate that, I have always fought against that,” said Mrs P. “This collection is about finding beauty everywhere, beauty of different kinds.”
The concrete cavernous hall inside Fondazione Prada sprouted with white and green foliage, as the design twosome addressed worker garb that’s “connected to the everyday world”, said Simons. The pop collars, mannish tailoring and “stereotypes of outerwear” came carried over from the men’s, with duffle coats and parkas now architectured with ballooned backs and curved lines. “It’s the beauty of couture, but put into something daily,” said Mrs P backstage, as sterile white scrubs migrated into elongated fishtail gowns and swing skirts, inspired by the idea of grounding the wedding dress within the everyday, blossomed with artificial flowers. (The show’s official invitation included a cotton, white lily, stamped with the brand’s triangle logo.)
Their joint passion to elevate the garments we interact with, day in, day out, sees Prada and Simons address reality head-on. “Everyday life deserves beautiful things,” said Mrs P. “Because every day of life counts.”
Photography courtesy of Prada.
