February 16, 2023 |
The swift trajectory of Raul Lopez’ namesake Luar is a success story worth celebrating. Relaunching the brand in 2021 after a two-year hiatus, the designer – who first established himself as a co-founder of Hood By Air – was New York Fashion Week’s official closer last night (a slot previously held by Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford). Armed with a CFDA award win for his hit Ana bag, and as of this morning, a place in the LVMH Prize semi-finals, Lopez (along with Willy Chavarria) is arguably the most exhilarating name on the NYFW schedule.
As with Chavarria, Lopez’ community-minded collections playfully subvert and elevate the sort of togs we’re confronted with daily. Like office garb, for instance, given the red-carpet treatment here thanks to louche tailoring fashioned with beefy shoulders, and your classic shirt and tie worn with floor-skimming skirts which fold against the wearer’s form like origami. The collection served as a homage to the strong women Lopez was surrounded by growing up in Williamsburg – translated to hooded evening gowns, cocooning tech jackets, sculpted duster coats and black faux-furs which looked like they’d been passed down through generations. The clever collision of experimental highlights with more wearable staples, like branded belts and joggers, saw Lopez quickly carve himself as a fledgling lifestyle brand – prepped and primed to dress his cult following which continues to grow at a rapid pace.
Photography courtesy of Luar.
