Masha Popova has a need for speed. Christening her London Fashion Week debut with the sound of engines revving, the Ukrainian-born designer looked to a darker mood in response to personal and worldwide upheavals. (Popova had been living back in the Ukraine when the Russian invasion began, and fled back to London.)
Popova is a hit amongst the likes of Dua Lipa and Kylie Jenner for her glistening, Y2K-inspired butterfly motifs. Here, she was clever not to lean into those too much – only one bra top had insect features. Instead, she focused on denim. Low-rise jeans, halter-neck mini-dresses, and apron-style skirts appeared to be chewed up and spat out by a drifting 4×4, with tyre trails graffitiing most of the pieces on display, including jersey T-shirts and maxi dresses. Swirling, oil spill-inspired graphics were joined by an iridescent motorcycle jacket and the total look was topped off knee-high platforms cloaked in more denim.
It’s exciting to see a designer like Popova already so assured in her vision. Her eye for sellable product is beyond her years. This is a designer speeding in the fast lane. Try to keep up.
Photography courtesy of Masha Popova.