June 27, 2022 |
For SS23 Casablanca took a trip back to the Wild Wild West, armoured with scalloped edges, fringe and suede chaps. Paired with kaleidoscopic colours and unambiguous Moroccan influences, the collection – dubbed Futuro Optimisto – transversed a deep-rooted sense of positivity through nostalgic-leaning dress.
Creative director Charaf Tajer imparted the offering in three vignettes: the essence of freedom and harmony with nature that emerges from the Vaqueros of the west coast of Mexico; the infinite mindscape that is Phantastica, transcending self-limiting beliefs and designing imaginative opportunities; and the abstract free flow of Nature & Architecture, where nature meets the man-made – in particular the constructed arch which perhaps functions as an abstract symbol of strength.
Models pranced down the sunset-coloured checkerboard catwalk in corrugated short shorts, opulent off-white suiting and denim for days. Teaming with high waists and contrast seams, the mood was decisively joyous.
Suddenly, delicate French rococo silhouettes with all the glitz, glam and aristocracy of the era appeared amongst the abundant rugged utility. In due course, silk apparel featured custom watercolour interpretations of fantastical creatures and psychedelic night skies inspired by the work of Pedro Linares and reimagined by the artisan-led workshop Zeny Fuentes y Reyna in Oaxaca. 65 looks strong, the vibrant primary palette was mixed with a bit of school girl cool for something a little bit more cosmopolitan.
When it came to garnishing the garments, Tajer proposed a new kind of cowboy hat with upturned brim and an elevated crown that felt somehow monarchal. Upholding this regal sentiment, delicate lattice beadwork and artisanal hand embroidery felt rather feminine and unburdened by gender-based polarities.
With the omnipresent iconographic Casablanca monograph percolating structured dresses, elongated trench coats and embroidered dungarees, the garms on display created a feeling of unity and harmony, it was an offering of eternal optimism apropos to the future.
Photography courtesy of Casablanca.
