March 2, 2022 |
Anthony Vaccarello served up a resounding reminder of why people come to Paris Fashion Week. As the industry puts itself back together post-pandemic, his Saint Laurent show was a tour de force of silhouette, line craft and attitude.
Held in a carpeted, open-sided venue visible from the street, the show opened with a perfectly proportioned pea coat worn over a fluttering white satin column. Vaccarello had been studying Yves Saint Laurent’s obsession with Art Deco. Taking the monochrome palette and streamlined silhouettes, he cross-pollinated it with eighties proportions and threw in armfuls of Nancy Cunard bracelets.
The result was a series of deliciously long, lean and imposing looks that were the epitome of sophisticated French chic. There was so much to buy into. Need a new coat? Vaccarello has it covered. Slouchy, oversized, belted, narrow: he gave a masterclass of cut. The dresses beneath were equally appealing. Perfect bias slips, gathered gowns, delicate negligees — all different, all divine. Tuxedo dressing is a forte of the house and the evening suits, which came in slouchy, classic cutsc, were another compelling reason to spend on Saint Laurent.
Vaccarello also showed spectacular fake furs that had been fashioned by the same furriers the house has worked with for years.
Photography by Jason Lloyd-Evans.
