February 28, 2022 |
GmbH design duo Serhat Isik and Benjamin A. Huseby took over Trussardi this weekend for a triumphant debut as the new creative backing behind the Milanese heritage brand.
Since 1911, Trussardi has specialised in leather goods, making it one of the oldest fashion houses still showing today. Erasing the hierarchical standards fashion has become so familiar with, the duo tackled signature Italian silhouettes, altering the status quo with each democratic low-waist trouser, holey knit and genderless coat-gown hybrid of the 40-look lineup.
A decaying café and store on the ground floor of Palazzo Trussardi served as the befitting set for the catwalk, evoking feelings of nostalgia and reflecting the idea of excavation. “The house of Trussardi has been overlooked for such a long time, a sleeping beauty for almost a quarter of a century,” the pair wrote in the show notes. “With this metaphor in mind, we looked at creating a new narrative spun from a mixture of fantastical fairy tales and the very real codes of how people dress on the streets of Milan.”
Echoing around the room as models took their stride, severe air-pressure drillers-turned-instruments mingled with the Neapolitan folk track “La Gatta Cenerentola” (translation: Cinderella the Cat); the beats reverberated off the mirrored Mylar walls on all sides, rippling like a magical looking glass, interconnected and everlasting.
The co-ed cast stomped through the Palazzo wreckage clad in newfangled piumino jackets, swathed in sensual boned-corsetry and donning broad-shoulder leather coats. Elsewhere, Isik and Huseby built armour-like shearlings inspired by Mediaeval and Renaissance dress and lined slick minis with bold bustles – all in black, white, and grey.
What’s more, a fresh house motif depicting an Italian greyhound ouroboros signalled an eternal cyclic renewal of life where time was not linear and memory prolonged the past into the present. Welcome to the new Trussardi.
Photography courtesy of Trussardi.
