Kim Jones’ tenure at Dior has been defined by stadium-sized collaboration. From bringing Shawn Stussy out of retirement, creating an entire collection with Travis Scott, through to an abundance of artist collaborations – whether that’s Peter Doig, Daniel Arsham, Kenny Scharf or KAWS. Though it was this season’s link-up that was the biggest yet.
As the house of Dior celebrates its 75th anniversary, Jones turned to the man who started it all, Monsieur Dior. “I wanted to look at the archive, at the purity of the beginnings of the house,” wrote Jones in his show notes, “at its original impulse.”
With a wealth of material on hand, Jones focused on the house’s initial collections – rerooting the couturier’s deeply feminine sensibilities to meet the demands of a man’s wardrobe today. Across an artificial rendition of the Pont Alexandre III bridge – as big and just a stone’s throw away from the actual thing – models came suited in Jones’ undeniably British tailoring, unified with Christian Dior signatures. Like the Bar jacket, now imagined for men, by way of hourglass denim jackets and checkered blazers with exposed stitchings. Or Jones’ wraparound formalwear, given here couture-like sashes.
The silhouettes – both strong and sloped shoulders, slouched trousers, roomy jumpers – were a combination of elegance and comfort. Today’s New Look is cosy, equipped for the everyday. Like Dior grey joggers, paired with powder blue shirts and a felty, floral-appliqued Birkenstocks collaboration – inspired by the flowers that grew in Monsieur Dior’s childhood garden. High-craft is not lost on contemporary classicism, either. The pearls and emerald bling of Dior Men’s jewellery maven, Yoon Ahn, were joined by a tennis bracelet crafted by Victoire de Castellane, who will each season create one fine jewellery piece for Dior men’s. And, of course, the berets of Stephen Jones, who is celebrating 25 years as Dior’s go-to milliner. (Both Stephen and Kim Jones took a bow together at the end of the catwalk.)
Post-show, Jones headed to Instagram to illustrate how the work of Monsieur Dior was translated into the collection. Not direct copies, but romantic gestures to the foundations of the house. It was a touching tribute.
Photography courtesy of Dior.
