September 29, 2021 |
Marc Bohan’s 30-year reign at Dior fascinates Maria Grazia Chiuri – particularly his 1961 ‘Slim Look’ collection which brought a new silhouette to the fore. She looked back to this moment of change, when the hourglass fifties silhouette defined by Mr Dior, morphed into the youthful tunics and short skirt suits of the sixties.
In that moment, when the culture flipped from one era to the next, Chiuri draws parallels to now and a world emerging from a pandemic. So the nipped-in silhouettes of her previous collections morphed into colour-blocked minis and tunics worn with knee boots. Silky boxing shorts and matching tops added a sporty element whilst slouchy denims brought a modern, youthful nonchalance. Party dressing was dominated by firework bright sequins and 3D embroideries bursting over short shifts, which Chiuri had designed to look good on the dance floor.
These leggy, joyful pieces signalled Chiuri’s desire to embrace a fresh new post-Covid era of fashion. Her set also reflected her more playful approach. She collaborated with the avant-garde artist Anna Paparatti, who, like Bohan, found fame in the sixties. She created a colourful circular set in which the models moved around as if they were pieces in a board game. Upbeat and optimistic, the whole thing bounced along beautifully.
Photography courtesy of Dior.
Photography by Sophie Carre
