February 18, 2020 |
The thing about JW Anderson that makes everyone sit up and take notice is his determination to revel in statement-making design. He works at the parameters of taste. What’s the point of designing a perfect shawl-collared swing coat when you can max out the silhouette and exaggerate the A-line to massive, meme-worthy proportions? Why add a little tasteful sparkle to a look when you can have a lush tinsel stole or jangle in your all-over, silver sequinned glory. That’s the J-Dubz approach. Familiar shapes made strange. Normcore is for losers. This is Fashcore. No wonder the front row are obsessed. This stuff is catnip for tastemakers. The extreme volumes were achieved with experimental fabrics developed in-house.
“I was playing with a mixture of fabrics at the studio. Some we have used before and some new and it came together in a sort of collage,” said Jonathan Anderson who took his lead from mixed media art.
Another reason JW Anderson stands out as a serious global contender on the London schedule? Accessories.
Those fabulous chunky chain loafers and bags he showed on his men’s catwalk reappeared here alongside crystal cinched flats, hairy ballet slippers. All power to him.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans.
