October 10, 2019 |
I’m sure some will fight me on this, but being an emerging designer in UK has never been as difficult as it is right now. Not only for the financial troubles of starting one’s business in a state of political turmoil or the saturation of the market (if you get your spot on it), but also the troubles with the ethical aspect of it. How do you suggest new and interesting ideas to a world that’s finally realised more is not more. Realistically – we already have enough designers and their clothes. So, how do you get away with adding even more to the over-production of clothes? You don’t. Instead, you take what’s already there and make it your own. Amsterdam-based Duran Lantink is fashion’s Doctor Frankenstein, establishing a unique method of using old-season luxury that didn’t sell and making new, one-of-a-kind pieces. Without knocking off their value by slapping that red “SALE” sticker on them, Lantink re-produces unique designs out of other people’s works and therefore avoids the problem of over-production. And in case his pieces are not sold, he takes them apart (again) and recreates new ideas. This circular way in fashion might be the only into the future with less landfill, and Duran Lantink is way ahead of the game. The final garments don’t carry a label (he despises the idea of calling himself a brand), but instead feature seemingly random neon orange stitches on each of the pieces, making sure you know it’s one of his.
Today, Lantink is launching a collaborative collection with Browns Fashion. Over the course of several weeks, he went into the retailer’s warehouse and hand-picked garments that never sold. With a complete carte-blanche, the 2019 LVMH Prize semi-finalist created 45 unique pieces in a mix of men’s and womenswear. You can get a Marques’Almeida puffer jacket with leather Balenciaga sleeves, or a Proenza Schouler top morphed into an Ann Demeulemeester dress. It’s every fashion geek’s dream of going through these pieces and tracing which part belongs to what designer – trust us, we already hosted one of Duran Lantink’s quizzes at Ten Towers. This collaboration is part of Browns Fashion’s new Conscious edit, looking at more sustainable luxuries in the fashion realm, with Duran Lantink being the first focus in their documentary series highlighting progressive voices in the industry. To celebrate the launch, we caught up with Duran Lantink in the space of Browns’ Fashion East flagship and asked him 10 VIQs. That’s Very Important Questions…
Dino Bonacic: Which item from the Browns archive was the most difficult to cut up?
Duran Lantink: The white leather Gucci jacket was pretty tricky…
DB: If you could put together any pieces from fashion history – which ones would you choose?
DL: I’d take John Galliano’s embroidered kimono jacket with an Alexander McQueen dress from the Atlantis collection and combine them with a one of Marie Antoinette’s corsets.
DB: If you could describe your design process with a song, which one would it be?
DL: Beautiful People by Marilyn Manson, sung acapella.
DB: What’s the best piece of advice you’ve ever been given and who did you get it from?
DL: “You have to destroy in order to rebuild” which was given to me by a friend of mine.
DB: Where do you go to find inspiration?
DL: Club.
DB: Which era of Madonna would you like to dress for the tour?
DL: That’s a hard choice, actually I’d love to dress Lourdes or Rocco.
DB: If you could have a superpower, which one would it be and why?
DL: I would like to be able to fly. Nothing feels more free than flying!
DB: Sweet or sour?
DL: Sour.
DB: Would you rather go to the moon or dive to the deepest part of the ocean?
DL: Dive.
DB: What’s the first piece of clothing you ever cut up?
DL: A Walter Van Beirendonck long-sleeved top belonging to my mum in 1996.
You can shop Duran Lantink’s capsule collection for Browns Fashion online and at Browns East.
