September 16, 2019 |
With Extinction Rebellion protestors picketing fashion week and Greta Thunberg lobbying in Washington, Roland Mouret was in a contemplative mood. He mulled the question of what is fashion’s place in a world under threat? “There’s a responsibility that comes with being creative,” he said, arguing the need to think carefully before putting more stuff in the world. Backstage he talked of ditching seasonal trends which drive waste and embracing personal style. He wants to create things that can be loved and worn for a long time. There’s always been a timeless aspect to Mouret’s work and you could see the value of that approach in his SS20 collection. He presented a covetable wardrobe of languid, easy pieces with hints of the Medina. There were loose Moroccan shirt dresses, second skin knits and easy jackets that could be worn by men or women.
Everything had a slouchy sophistication even the sequin evening gowns were worn with flat sandals. Some silhouettes were inspired by early 1980s New York when the city was close to bankruptcy. “It was a mix of CBGB punk and the upper east side. It was a time when people were dressing up amazingly and people dying in the street,” he said and drew parallels with that time of crisis and now. It made for a compelling collection but Mouret brushed off the compliments and said his “biggest pride” was the new hangers he’s using across his business made from recycled ocean plastic. Sometimes it’s the small things that matter most.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans
