Entering Plaisterers’ Hall this evening felt a world away from the universe Kiko Kostadinov has crafted thus far. Giant chandeliers hung from the ceiling as we sat beneath the watchful gaze of aristocrats who occupied paintings across all four walls. But this was like no collection Kiko had done before. It seemed this time around the Bulgarian designer was more inspired by the goings-on at the Grand National than the sci-fi and horror flicks that shaped his work in the past. Tunics and glossy silk jockey uniforms were covered in diamonds and swirls, doused in an array of different hues. Some in shades of pink that were not too sugary, others red, lilac and apricot. Each were teamed with leather riding boots that towered high – in collaboration with Camper – and heavy hoods equipped with a flat–cap front. It’s Kostadinov’s first time working with graphics this season, with beach bags and oversized jerseys plastered in motifs derived from vinyl artwork. “We spent so much time referencing old artworks but clashing them to make it look completely new to us,” he said backstage. “We spent as much time on the clothes as we did on the graphics.”
The real surprise came slap bang in the middle. A collection of belted trench coats and quilted suits made from recycled twill were paired with Victorian curls – a section of sharp tailoring served to separate the jockeys from the louche techy streetwear he does so well. Nylon anoraks and relaxed tracksuit bottoms looked fantastic with Kostadinov’s fifth collaboration with Asics, a checkered trainer that took a year and a half to build due to its unique FlyteFoam sole. It was the first Asics prototype created with a designer outside of the brand. The bookies bet is that everyone will be wearing these trainers when next summer rolls around.
