February 27, 2019 |
Stepping into the monumental Saint Laurent mirrored box show space was like stepping into a vast new superclub where all the VIP members are vetted on the fierceness of their “don’t sit with me” attitude and their resemblance to Catherine Deneuve, Bianca Jagger and Betty Catroux. The catwalk was lined with infinity mirrors and lit by a throbbing light installation. Down it powered the models, in big shouldered coats tiny skirts and razor sharp high heels. The silhouettes were high eighties – black (with the exception of Bianca’s white tuxedo) and tailored. “Everything starts with the shoulder,” said Anthony Vaccarello “I want to give more power to women, and I think they need the shoulder.” Even the embroidered peasant blouses came with imposing shoulder pads and blousons were lavished with Opium-era embroideries.
Vaccarello saved the best till last. The show ended with a parade of his signature mini dresses – colourful feathered concoctions or swooping silhouettes in architectural sequins. The twist? They all glowed in the dark, as did the sunglasses (worn at night, naturally) and the shoes. The YSL girl is dressed to kill during the day and dressed to thrill at night but either way, she’s a force to be reckoned with.
Photographs by Jason-Lloyd Evans.
