January 16, 2017 |
Mr Armani has spoken, and he’s said throw out the manx. Man spanx. Well, not in so many words. But he did call this, his AW17 collection, a release – a release from rigidity, to paraphrase the pre-show notes. Who doesn’t like to hear that when it comes to an item of clothing? So pop your trouser button and take a deep breath outwards, because this was an exploration of all those codes for which Mr Armani is so known – impeccable tailoring, a restrained colour palette, clothing to take you from morning to night, but here, loosened up. Suiting that was a little wider of leg, blazers slightly more oversized, touches of billowing velvet, a more fluid, graceful silhouette. Scarves that looped around the body, some with sleeves, that, later in the show become big hunks of fur that wrapped around the upper half of the torso. Can we call it beastly? Not that a loosened up silhouette meant, in any way, that Mr Armani was letting it all hang out – these were still Armani demi-gods, hewn from finest Italian marble and encased in clothing with all the preciseness, luxury and beauty for which Giorgio has made his name. Neo-classics, Mr Armani called the collection. Which means timeless Giorgio, for now. Always a masterclass, always a fitting end to Milano.
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans
