September 30, 2016 |
FUTURE SEX SPORT. These were notes we scribbled down as we watched Julien Dossena’s really rather fabulous spring offering for Paco Rabanne yesterday. Future and sex mostly because they were written across the opening look (upon a t-shirt collaboration with Peter Saville) – but also because, well, we did invoke use of brain and think that yes, the collection itself was both futuristic and sexy. Think, space-age party dressing: slinky leather thigh-skimming mini-dresses, a little skewiff at the hem, a slinky top and skirt combo in molten metal fabric, tight-fitted dresses made from a fabric of interlocking circles. Also on the futuristic front were the dresses made entirely of crystals. Because the future isn’t just bright, it’s also clear. And shiny. And a bit noisy. But what better way to announce that you’ve entered a room that with the clack-clack of several hundred crystals? But there was a sporty thread too, to return to those aforementioned notes. Think clean and bright sportswear whites – complete with ruched elasticated waistbands, a bit of perforated fabric, a lean, athletic silhouette. And those hoods. Can we say they were a bit Woody Allen in Everything You Wanted To Know About Sex? Except these women did not, in any way, resemble sperm. Enough on that. To end? A dose of ladylike fashions – a lace-y skirts, sheer pink tights, shirt dresses that were frilled along the yoke. As the finale stomped out we became increasingly sure that yes, this is all a woman, present or future, could ever desire. Hoorah for Mr Dossena!
Photographs by Jason Lloyd-Evans
