August 26, 2016 |
We are breaking all the rules, because we can. This isn’t technically a look back as the next season hasn’t started yet, but who cares? Pull up a chair and listen up to what our Executive Fashion Director – Garth Allday Spencer – has to say about one of his favourite AW16 shows.
As the flocks of us fashion fowls begin to get back from holidays near and far, I think back to last season. Autumn/Winter 2016. New York to be exact. What we saw earlier in the year and how it feels now that we are approaching Autumn. The summer sales are long over and the clothes for the colder seasons fill stores on the hot city streets. My mind goes back to my first full New York Womenswear season and all of the shows that were presented to the worlds media, buyers and customers.
If I had to choose my favourite collection from NYFW it would have to be DKNY.
Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne of Public School fame seemed to have found their woman. Staying within the brand’s DNA and Donna’s legacy of her secondary line it was a sprinkling of Salt-N-Pepa and Boyz n The Hood mixed with a gum chewing angsty teen sitting in the back of the classroom from Dangerous Minds.The masc/dom/femme collection still felt sexy; in its movement of asymmetrical slips and its crops in tailoring and down puffers. You would not mess with her, but you would still find her sexy. It felt strong, in control and non-prissy. Where many brands might feel like they are chasing the last seasons’ Paris shows through rehashed shapes and style, DKNY seemed to actually reflect the city it was in and the style that young women around the world might try to reflect.From casting, to music, to the individually styled hair, all came together and felt totally present, relevant in this moment.
Michele Pfeiffer once said in a not-so ‘Public School’: “There are no victims in this classroom”
