July 9, 2011 |
FROM THE VAULT (SPRING SUMMER 2011)
Getting some people on the phone is nigh on impossible. And no, it’s not because they’re avoiding our calls, it’s because they’re busy. Very, very busy. Flying to Paris, then back to New York, for a day before flying out to Honolulu, and maybe a pitstop in London in between. But such is life when you’re a highly in demand casting director. What can you? You just go with it, and leave thousands of tres polite phone messages. With any luck he’ll call you back. And answer your questions. Voice mail by voice mail.
HOW DID YOU GET STARTED IN CASTING? WHAT WAS YOUR FIRST JOB?
Front desk receptionist at the Oribe salon in 1992 It was the height of the 90’s supermodel moment and Oribe was doing all of the girls’ hair – on and off the runway. Richard Tyler and his wife came into the salon and took the opportunity to interview me on the spot right there at the front desk and hired me to run their newly opened NY showroom. I was the sole employee for a time – I did editors appointments, sales appointments and produced and casted the Resort 2003 runway show – that was my first. Veronica Webb opened and closed the show.
WHY DO YOU DO WHAT YOU DO?
I love what I do. I love the people I work with. I love my clients. I love the speed and efficiency with which my job happens (with a few painful exceptions…). I love that there is a definitive end to each and every job. I’m a really organized person and this job allows me to categorize and compartmentalize all kinds of people and events – it’s a total wet dream come true.
WHAT HAS BEEN THE HIGHLIGHT OF YOUR CAREER? MOST MEMORABLE MOMENT?
My first Victoria’s Secret fashion show in 2000 at the Cannes Film Festival was a pretty memorable moment. The VS branded chartered Concorde, the photo op on top of the Hotel Martinez with Stephanie Seymour, Eva Herzigova, Karen Mulder, Tyra Banks, Laetitia Casta…. The absolute over the top’ness of that whole event was epic.
WHERE ARE YOU FROM?
Born in Honolulu, Hawaii with 6 years and many summers spent in the Philippines (my Mom is Filipino). Then a 5 year detour to San Francisco as a young adult before landing in NYC.
WHAT’S YOUR SECRET FOR MAKING IT IN NEW YORK?
I have an incredibly supportive older brother (the artist Paul Pfeiffer) and also an incredibly loving and supportive boyfriend (the artist Andy Ness)…
WHAT MAKES A FACE SPECIAL? STAND OUT? DO YOU HAVE ANY GUIDELINES? EG. EYES MUST BE EXACTLY 3 CM APART. FOREHEAD 10 CM HIGH. OR IS IT MORE OF A INSTINCTIVE THING?
My working process is something that is very hard to articulate. I rely a great deal on intuition.
WHAT EXACTLY DOES BEING A CASTING DIRECTOR ENTAIL?
It means talking and emailing with: designers, stylists, agents, photographers, art directors, more agents, producers… It means having an opinion and also being able to express that opinion effectively with kindness and compassion. It means working “in the moment” which is something I try to do in my professional life as well as my personal.
WHAT MAKES FOR GOOD CASTING?
Good editing is the most important thing. Separating the wheat from the chaff, know what I mean? Of course, one designers wheat is often another designers chaff. So it’s also important to keep a casting relevant to the designer or client – while at the same time advancing a point of view.
WHAT’S IT LIKE WORKING ON A VICTORIA’S SECRET SHOW? IS IT CRAZIER THAN A FASHION SHOW? HOW DO YOU DECIDE IF AN ANGEL GETS HER WINGS?
It’s definitely a unique process. First of all, the planning literally starts as soon as the previous year’s show airs on TV at the end of November. Dates are put on hold for many models as far as 8 months in advance of the show. The show airs in over 150 countries around the world – can you imagine? The amount of media attention that surrounds the girls at every step of the production can be very intense. In the final weeks leading up to the show when models are coming in for their many fittings photographers and video cameras hover in every corner.
The girls can be competitive and emotional when it comes to the wings. They want bigger and better than they had the year before and the ones that have not had them yet are all aspiring and waiting in the “wings” for their turn…
WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE GROWING UP? A VICTORIA’S SECRET ANGEL?
I mean – with Andre J getting a French Vogue cover and Lea T getting a Givenchy ad campaign I can dream, can’t I?
by Natalie Dembinska
Photograph by Rainer Hosch – www.rainerhosch.com
