Wu’s woman is looking ‘bossed up’ for pre-fall. This isn’t some kind of pun on the fact that it’s now a year since the designer joined Hugo Boss as the brands artistic director. Our definition is the very same as urbandictionary.com’s. To be ‘bossed up’ is ‘to be in charge in a big way. To act like a boss.’ The designers turn towards a more streamlined and serious approach could arguably be the germanic influence of the brand he now spends much of his time overseeing, but we prefer to imagine that his woman is simply asserting her rightful place in the pecking order, be it the board room or the bar. As Wu approaches a decade of ready to wear, her identity is cemented, and sense of luxury presented in a less sing-it-from-the-rooftops way. The richness of exits in this collection came via deepest blues and greens. Almost magesterial tones borrowed from the early work of artist Dan Flavin.
By Vincent Levy