Yohji Yamamoto didn't title his collection "Subtraction", but it was the one word he offered afterwards, backstage, to describe his clothes. You could see a few subtraction a in the show, or lapels being sliced off coats, sometimes of the

Perfect day. It played on the soundtrack, and was printed across the backs of Jun Takahashi's Undercover collection. What makes a perfect day? Puffy prom dresses cross-bred with perfecto jackets, crowned with golden branches. Who knows what’s on? Not us.

The signature micro accordion pleats of Issey Miyake have been quite spectacularly revived of late. Meaning many designers have references them - some subtly, some blatantly - in their own collections. That poses a challenge for Yoshiyuki Miyamae: how to

"Teutonic" was Hussein Chalayan's title for his winter 2016 collection. It fits the rigorous nature of Chalayan's aesthetic - German techno, Burda patterns, Autobahns, a bit of Kraftwerk. Chalayan's clothes are generally strict and sharp, decidedly Teutonic in themselves, even

Christian Dior has something very few houses can boast of: immediately-recognisable, eternally distinguishable house codes. Femininity, flowers, the curvaceous Bar silhouette of padded hips, emphasised bust and cinched waist. Those were the ideas Dior team, lead by Serge Ruffieux and

We all want to be cool, right? That's the choice world Jonathan Anderson used to describe his winter Loewe collection. Cool for cats - like the pendants hung around models' necks, resemble the porcelain good luck charm waving breed in

It must be wonderful being an Ann Demeulemeester girl. We imagine it’s a bit like like that scene in Spice World, where Victoria “Posh Spice” Adams (now obvs Beckham) questions if she’s going to wear the little black Gucci dress,

Post apocalyptic couture under a thatch of unruly hair. It's the Rick Owens way. He called this collection Mastodon and alluded, as he did back in January's menswear season, to an end-of-the-world type scenario where man goes the way of

Vetements is kind of like a fashion religion right now. Or maybe a cult. They took over the American Cathedral in Paris to show their winter collection, opening with the brand's stylist Lotta Volka in a sliced-short choir girl ensemble

Madeleine Vionnet was one of the leading lights of pre-war Parisian haute couture. She changed the face of fashion, inventing the bias cut still beloved by celebrities for red carpet wear today. So the challenge at Vionnet is far less