The legendary fashion writer and commentator Colin McDowell obviously has a fair few things to say about men’s style, past and present, including his own.
What are you wearing?
“I nearly always wear Ralph Lauren. I find his cut perfect for my figure and the fabrics are amazing. I am still wearing his clothes from 40 years ago and Americans still compliment me on my beautiful ‘English tailoring’. That being said, my favourite garment is English – a Burberry duffel coat that I live in during the winter.”
How about what’s not visible?
“I rarely put anything scented on my skin during the day but, when I do in the evening, it is always Habit Rouge – the Chanel No 5 of men’s fragrance. I wear briefs and I buy only M&S, in white, as I have done since I first went to university, a very long time ago.”
What’s your greatest fashion luxury?
“I have none. I spend what is required to get clothes that are properly made and actually last for years. Fads do not interest me at all.”
Are you a carry-on or excess-baggage kind of man?
“Although I love to travel, I find the preparations for it boring and always aim to spend the minimum time packing. I take the least I can get away with and have never had to pay any excess. I shove everything in the hold apart from my carry-on bag full of things I convince myself are essential. That changes and so does the bag. Currently, I am alternating between a beautiful leather briefcase by Tom Ford, a very useful portfolio by Aspinal of London, a great Missoni carpetbag and a bag that has been in my family forever and is, of course – as it is at least 50 years old – my favourite. I have so much high-quality luggage by names including Vuitton, Ralph Lauren and Dior up in the attic of my house in the country. They are just too beautiful to allow to get into the hands of the baggage handlers at Heathrow and are just waiting for the Learjet that I feel I richly deserve after so many years in fashion.”
What’s your biggest sartorial turn-on?
“Out in the country in the lashing rain, with boots, thick socks, waterproof over-trousers and my waterproof, army-issue peacoat, which is now over 50 years old and still keeps me snug and dry. I feel so pampered by clothing that fulfils a unique purpose far removed from fashion clothes.”
How do you dress to impress?
“I don’t. I never wear a dinner jacket or tails as I think they are ridiculous snobbery on the part of people who have no reason to be snobby. In London I like to wear a tie – preferably one that’s an old friend and a veteran of the dry-cleaners.”
What’s your hangover/out-for-a-pint-of-milk look?
“I have two. When I am in Wales I have to go four miles to the nearest shop, so it is a sweatshirt, old trousers and Adidas. I also live in Soho, and then it’s a T-shirt and some jogging pants with Tod’s motoring shoes.”
Are you, or have you ever been, part of a scene?
“Certainly not. I avoid fashion scenes whenever I can. They attract the very stupidest of people.”
What do you love about menswear today?
“Menswear today is the most exciting it has been since Carnaby Street, Mr Fish and all that decadent velvet and lace look, but this time it is fresher, younger, more colourful and about reality, not costume. It is also only for the young, with their twig-thin arms and legs, concave bellies and tight hips. Only young London guys can carry it off and any man with a real, mature figure should know his place and avoid it.”
What’s missing from menswear today?
“Variety – except in little pockets of resistance to suburban dressing. Although things are better than they were, there is still not enough colour and pattern that a guy over 25 can wear without looking like a prat.”
Are you part of the zeitgeist?
“I damn well hope not, although I do know what the word actually means – which puts me ahead of the fashion airheads who use it so freely and incorrectly.”
What’s your earliest memory/concept of style?
“Buying a pair of bright tan suede chukka boots and having a monumental row with my father over whether they were too outré to be seen in our sleepy country town. It rocked Casa McDowell for a few days. He won. And he was right.“
Who’s your ultimate style icon?
“A cross between Steve McQueen, Truman Capote and Cary Grant.”
The true measure of a man is?
“His penis.”
Photographer: Will Johns
By Vincent Levy
