The time for menswear to shine is fast approaching and over here at 10 Towers we frankly can’t wait to bask in its warm and wonderful glory. With a host of exciting appearances to look out for, the season – which kicks off with Pitti Uomo and ends in Paris – is sure to provide us parched fashionphiles with a host of delectable designs to quench our thirst. Peppered with some of the industry’s most talked about up–and–comers as well as some favoured familiar faces, the idea of keeping up with it all might feel a tad overwhelming. Luckily, for those on a strict diet of luxury streetwear and sharp–as–nails tailoring, we know your plight, and have outlined the top 10 things to keep an eye on in the upcoming menswear season. Bella Koopman
Gucci AW23
1. The new guard takes on Pitti Uomo
Steven Stokey-Daley and Luca Magliano both burst onto the fashion scene with the most spectacular flair. With the former experimenting with traditional British codes and the latter winning LVMH’s Karl Lagerfeld Prize for his creative interpretation of the Italian class struggle, Daley makes his debut at the Florentine menswear showcase whilst Magliano returns for the second time after his brand’s introduction in 2018. Sure to fill any onlooker with promise for the future of menswear, the two guest designers at Pitti Uomo are not ones to miss. BK
2. Sabato de Sarno’s Gucci menswear debut
Pierpaolo Piccioli’s former right-hand, Sabato de Sarno – who rose to prominence in his role as fashion director of Valentino’s men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections – will make his Gucci menswear debut on Friday, January 12. Following in the footsteps of beloved maximalist Alessandro Michele, who left the Italian house in 2022, de Sarno’s womenswear premier in September indicated he will be steering the ship towards an understated yet slyly sexy aesthetic. The chance to see him apply this same energy to the brand’s menswear arm is one of the hottest tickets of the season. Don’t miss it; tune into our livestream. BK
3. The big hitters continue to make menswear magic
From Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ Prada, to Silvia Venturini Fendi’s elevated menswear classics and Dean and Dan Caten’s sex-drenched Dsquared2, there will be a healthy helping of standout shows at the season’s initial stop in Milan. BFC’s Designer of the Year, Jonathan Anderson, will be showing for his eponymous label JW Anderson and design veteran Giorgio Armani will be showcasing collections from both his namesake label and its offshoot, Emporio Armani. Closing the week in Italy will be luxury Italian connoisseur’s Zegna. Proceed with caution, sensational shows ahead. BK
4. Pronounce joins the Milanese new guard
Shanghai–based label Pronounce – founded by upcoming designers Yushan Li and Jun Zhou – will make its debut in Milan on January 14. After becoming the first Chinese-founded brand to show at Pitti Uomo in 2019, the duo have been showing in London since then. With their bold prints and oversized silhouettes, the creatives join a host of other young brands such as Andersson Bell and JordanLuca who are carving their own unique spaces in the menswear scene. BK
5. Pack your bags boys! Pharrell is back in Paris for his third Louis Vuitton menswear show
The king of showmanship – Pharrell Williams – returns to Paris for his third runway presentation as the creative director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear branch. After an awe-inspiring takeover of Paris’ Pont Neuf bridge for his debut and a nautical extravaganza in Hong Kong, the multi-hyphenate will be showcasing his second Parisian show on January 16. Expect high production value, a healthy serving of theatricality and a no-doubt star-studded front row. BK
Louis Vuitton Menswear Pre-Fall 2024
6. Givenchy goes it alone following Matthew M. Williams’ departure
It’s been just over a month since Matthew M. Williams stepped down from his post as creative director of Givenchy to focus his efforts on his own label 1017 Alyx 9SM. The American designer held the position for three years with its Pre-Fall 2024 collections serving as his curtain call. But new year, new direction. Launching its next chapter without a creative director filling the bill, the brand’s atelier is set to unite for its AW24 menswear outing, which will debut on January 17, as part of Paris Fashion Week Men’s. Emily Phillips
7. Valentino Menswear is back, again!
Back on the Paris men’s schedule, Valentino is one to watch. In June of last year during Milan Fashion Week Mens, the Parisian house unveiled its first menswear-dedicated runway in three years, one which delivered a softened, boyish wardrobe that honed in on vulnerability, resilience and the meaning of masculinity and the clothes that shape it. Perhaps this time around Pierpaolo Piccioli will opt for the same glitz and glam that underlines his womenswear work? Tune in on Saturday, January 20 to catch the action. EP
8. Balmain Homme makes its return to the runway
Balmain’s menswear line, which initially launched in June of 2015, hasn’t staged a standalone, IRL show since the autumn/winter 2020 season. But Balmain Homme is back, baby, after 11 seasons of lookbooks and a spattering of co-ed shows, so trust us when we say this Parisian display is set to be a big one. The masculine-chic take on camped-up tailoring we’ve come to expect from creative director Olivier Rouesting has got us chomping at the bit to see what’s in store. EP
9. All the usual suspects
As always, the usual roster of established names, some of the biggest in the fashion biz, are set to firmly hold their own. Our dark lord, the indomitable Rick Owens, will present his AW24 offering on Thursday, January 18, and on Friday, Dior will see Kim Jones enter into his sixth successful year at the house. Friday, January 19 is also Japan day, with mainstays Comme des Garçons and Junya Watanabe rolling out what should be some seriously memorable collections. Loewe will storm the runway on Saturday, January 20, closely followed by Hermès, which is expected to deliver the ultra-luxe aesthetics we’ve been craving. On Sunday, January 21, all eyes will be on South Korean label Wooyoungmi. EP
10. GMBH closes out the week
Closing out the week, GMBH will present its latest menswear collection with design duo Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby taking charge. If the sexed-up simplicity of the spring collection has anything to say about what we can expect, it’s that these boys have got subversive menswear in the bag. EP
GMBH Menswear Spring 2024
Top image: From left to right – Givenchy Menswear Spring 2024, Valentino Menswear Spring 2024, Louis Vuitton Menswear Pre-Fall 2024. Follow all the action from the AW24 menswear shows via our Instagram stories at @10magazine and @10menmagazine.
