February 23, 2025 |
Petra Fagerstrom
The first to take to the runway were the sexy, illusory pieces of Petra Fagerstrom. One of the winners of the the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award, Fagerstrom and her sexy, trompe-l’œil pieces were catapulted into an impressive cohort of past winners including Yaku Stapleton and Matty Bovan. Using delicate, shutter-blind-like pleats to subtly disrupt the prints, which displayed lingerie-clad female bodies, Fagerstrom’s MA collection was a deserving winner. Bella Koopman
Jake Zhang
Jake Zhang’s boxy, exaggerated sports undergarments were a weird and wonderful take on sexy, everyday wear. Mixing 3D silhouettes with a subversive take on athleisure, Zhang’s designs were clean in their execution and effective in their impact. BK
Alison Keogh and Kate Dewar
Design duo Alison Keogh and Kate Dewar used their MA menswear to speak to the sensibilities of Camden in the mid-naughties. Shrunken shirts with flappy or sharply cut collars were rendered from bright yellow, blue or sparkling red, whilst straight-leg trousers were topped with a second layer of sheer fabric for a subtle brilliance. BK
Liu Xueyang
Liu Xueyang’s swollen, draped knits were impressive to behold. With thin stripes a prominent feature, the pieces danced around the body, encasing the torsos and shoulders of each model to create a collection that embraced soft power at every turn. BK
Kelechi Mpamaugo
Kelechi Mpamaugo’s MA collection felt like it had a defiant backbone. Informed by her Nigerian heritage, garments like her oversized toggled cargo trousers, wide-fit shorts and elegantly ruched dresses and tops were excellent and unapologetic. BK
Jane Fu
Jane Fu’s MA collection unfurled with excellent, sculpted outerwear and organza layers. Dreamy and feather light yet techy and designed for everyday wear, it had an addictive geometry to it with panelling in plenty of places.
Lucas Moretti
With an all black collection that reeked of glamour, particularly ace faux furs made from macrame, Lucas Moretti made a bold statement with his graduate collection. Curvaceous in places with drapes of fur in others, it was a prefect proposal for a lavish evening on the town.
Oriol Clavell
With their clever use of caps that were repurposed to create a parade of expressive looks, both avant garde and seriously wearable, Oriol Clavell’s collection was the stuff of techno dreams. Draped or sculptural pieces in cool tones dominated the offering while wardrobe basics received a layered update.
Scar Kennedy
Scar Kennedy’s MA offering was truly bonkers, and in the best way. Think knitted frocks frosted with glitter and littered with fluffy Pom Poms. It was all very playful and fun; the kind of stuff that makes you nostalgic for your childhood, where style is unapologetically experimental and dreams are limitless.
William Palmer
William Palmer brought the English kitchen to the catwalk with his MA graduate collection. That means teapots were turned into hats, tea towels were repurposed as shirts and exaggerated tweed suits were cut away into youthful waistcoats.
Photography courtesy of Central Saint Martens.
